Yes, Pleats

More holiday sewing!

The first item for my first 3 pack is the Style Arc Emily skirt skirt. I ordered the paper pattern direct, so it was lovely not to have to trace the pattern, or add seam allowances, and I didn’t even have to make any changes to the pattern itself for sizing.  The construction did, however, present some  challenges, most of which I think I just about got away with (for a change!)

EMILY-SKIRT

I bought my check fabric from Fabworks, in their actual shop, not the online version, with the original idea to make a Vivienne Westwood style draped skirt from it. I have tried draping things myself, with a little success, but as soon as I saw the Emily skirt I realised I had an easy  excellent match.

The fabric is a wool blend and was lovely to work with. It’s a medium weight with just enough drape for this pattern. I’d not recommend anything firmer, as there is a lot of pleating, and the waist seam can get bulky in places. A medium weight viscose or linen fabric would be good too.

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Also, ironing, ahem

My first challenge was accepting that pattern matching was going to be imperfect, as the front sides of the skirt are on the bias. I did my best, however, and I think I just about got away with it.  I cut the waistband on the cross-grain.

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The invisible zip went in easily, after stabilising the seam with this, from English Couture, although it had the usual dent at the bottom due to being inserted into a curved seam.  If anyone knows how I can get rid of it please do let me know. I used their firm, coat weight interfacing on the waistband, and their silky touch on the facings.

The pattern has some nice touches, like the single pocket in the right hand seam, the extra wide waistband and a separate hem facing.

I also added a short lining, as I think wool needs it, just to cover the main areas of stretch. I used the back pattern piece for both front and back. I don’t sew the darts, just make a pleat to take in the excess.

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I would say it also runs on the large size, especially at the waist. Like the Big 4 really.  I did have to take it in slightly there as a result.  It also hits just above the knee, even on me at 5’4″ so if you’re taller, you might want to think about lengthening. I got it out of just over a metre of fabric.

I have already cut out the jacket to go with the skirt, as the second item for my 3 pack. V1465,  a Donna Karan pattern.

V1465

My fabric is a double sided knit, black on one side and forest green on the other. I’m planning to use the green as the main colour, as black does not really go with my colouring.

I’m now trying to decide on the 3rd item, to go with the jacket and skirt. It definitely needs to be fitted in style, but other than that I can’t make my mind up. So. much. choice. I think I’ll get a better idea when I make up the jacket.

 

 

 

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6 thoughts on “Yes, Pleats

  1. I really love a checked skirt, especially with a plain jacket. Would a blouse or top be a good idea, perhaps picking up one of the other colours in the skirt – red or the lighter green?

  2. So. many. choices. I’m trying to use stash and have a pale gold silk and an orange jersey which co-ordinate. I’m thinking of it fitting in with the later items I plan to sew. Maybe I’m overthinking it and just need to make something to look good with this 3 pack.

  3. Pingback: Unfinished Work | thesewingmiserablist

  4. i love the westwood inspiration! i’m sewing this now in a lighter fabric but am putting plaid wool on my to-sew list for fall!

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