Definitely not brown jeans

 

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Hello matey peeps. No, stop looking at the shiny shoes. Not them. Look, I made jeans!

This is my second time and I am obviously a glutton for punishment. I do wear jeans quite a lot but if you asked me whether I liked them in general I would probably say no. They are ubiquitous, but I am lazy and really can’t think of anything else to wear when dressed down, they are so comfortable and hard wearing.

I got the Named Jamie jeans pattern last year but didn’t need any new jeans until recently, when, after losing a few pounds I realised I didn’t have a good fitting pair any more.

Many people have made these and I can see why. The design lines elevate them from the standard 5 pocket design and I do like quite a skinny jean still, even though wider styles and even flares seem to have come back into style.

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Fitting wise on these I found overall they were quite generous in size, however the legs were super-slim below the knee, although I am not endowed of slim calves, others have noted the same.

I also did something I’ve never done before. I chose a different size for the front legs than I did for the backs, below the crotch. Ssssh don’t tell the Sewing Police!

Past experience has told me that I often end up doing a wide inner thigh adjustment on the front of trousers, then a narrow leg alteration at the back, to resolve bagginess.  In RTW I have trouble with inseams on trousers being pulled forward,  and twisting, but that’s another story.

So, I measured my own front leg width, from inseam point to inseam point, all the way down the leg (below the crotch) and decided I needed the biggest size at the front. I then did the same at the back and this led me to choose the 2nd smallest size there.  Width only, guys, not length. My figure is slimmest from front to back, and is comparatively quite wide otherwise. I alway imagine that someone drove over my lower half with a steamroller, like they do in the cartoons, and that’s why I ended up this shape, ha!

I have my patient husband to thank for pocket placement and I added some scraps of leather trim to shuzsh them up.

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The fabric is a stretch denim from Joel and Sons. I needed stretch and couldn’t find any good quality locally. Also it was described as brown, hahahaha! No, your screen isn’t lying, it’s black. This is the second time in a few weeks I’ve been totally surprised by what’s been sent from an online order, and from reputable sellers who are charging top dollar. I kept the fabric because I liked it and they sent me an extra metre, but really. I don’t think I need to order a swatch with everything before I buy.  Their descriptions should basically be reliable.

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The topstitching is quite distinctive and next time I might try a more subtle contrast. They are mid-rise which is as low as I’d like to go. My waist doesn’t curve in until much higher so I have problems keeping anything low up.

For construction, i used a combination of the  indiesew and Ginger jeans sew along. The latter, especially,  is a fantastic resource for all things jeans. I tried the waistband without interfacing and it is lovely and comfortable. Time will tell whether I will do it again.

I don’t usually want to make anything twice but I’m sure I’ll make these again. There are so many options to change them up. Once the fit is right they aren’t that difficult to make, really.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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11 thoughts on “Definitely not brown jeans

  1. I’d never have thought about doing different sizes for the front and back legs but I’m now thinking that might be a fitting fix for me too! Love the jeans (and the shiny shoes!)

  2. Great looking jeans! I’m still trying to find out whether I have too much length or too much width at the back of my upper legs, may try your approach for my next muslin. Your husband did a great job, perfect pocket placement!

    • You’re very kind Marianne. I’m wearing them out and about and can still see they need a little tweaking and yes too much length at the back was always my problem, which I think I’ve mostly fixed there. I did also do a flat rear adjustment before resizing as well as I inward knees. I’m using the Liechty book, and marked off at least 10 alterations I should consider. Trouble is some of them cancel each other out, ha! It’s a good book tho.

  3. Karen, you are one sewer who works 360 degrees ~ wonderful!!! I was shown how to do this too, but reading how you’ve altered your pattern accordingly is so-o-o helpful. Thank you! 💝

    • So glad I’m not the only one doing it. I’m using the book Fitting and pattern Alteration by E. Liechty at the moment and trying the different fitting challenges I face. This was was definitely one of my challengiest challenges! Thanks for your lovely comments too.

      • You’re very welcome, I’m sure. Will have to look up this book. Thank you for the title! (The book I’ve got is listed to the right in the side bar, by Hazen.) Well done you for working assiduously with yours! 😀

  4. Great work – these fit beautifully and I especially like the rear (even if it is a different size – why not?). Well done Mr SM.

    I used a light grey contrast (on navy) with mine and regreted it. Next time I will have a more subtle top stitch thread. And brown denim would have been nice, wouldn’t it? There is an idea.

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