Hi sewing chickens!
So, I’m on a bit of a casual, comfortable and classic jag at the moment and for the last couple of weeks I’ve been working on a new sweatshirt and some more jeans for the cold Winter days we’re getting.
First up the Cords, using my trusty Burdastyle Floral Skinny Jeans 03/2014 in some lovely stretch corduroy I bought from Cohen’s at the Knitting and Stitching Show in Harrogate last November.
These almost went in the bin, as after I tacked them together to check on the fit I found the legs had twisted at the bottom, and the inseam was all the way round to the front. After some investigating I realised that my adjusted pattern was at fault, so I got my lovely, patient husband to re-pin them and they were just about saved. They are just a little tighter over the calves than I’d like as a result and this shows as wrinkles at the knees and back due to my extended calves.
I did all the usual topstitching but it doesn’t really show well in corduroy.
Construction wise I didn’t do anything different than the last pair of jeans. I did however interface the waistband as the fabric is stretchy and I didn’t want them to fall down! They are super comfy and soft and are a useful neutral in my wardrobe.
Since then I’ve gone back and totally revamped my jeans pattern, as I was still dis-satisfied with back leg wrinkles and after 4 muslins, phew, I think they’re pretty good, although I’ve yet to make a proper pair from them yet. Well fitting jeans are, to me, almost the holy grail of sewing.
I’ve since learned a lot about my fitting issues whilst doing this, so for the record the following changes to the pattern were made.
- extended calf adjustment (tuck upper thigh at front to nothing at inseam)
- Flat bottom adjustment (tuck upper thigh at back to nothing at inseam)
- Low posterior adjustment (Scoop out and lower back crotch curve)
- Swayback adjustment (take out wedge at centre back waist)
- Widened inseams for large thigh/calf
I found the Itch to Stitch Liana jeans fitting sew along useful, as Kennis seems to have a similar shape to me in trousers. I do also use the Palmer Pletsch Pants for Real People fitting book but find the examples and patterns they use a bit dated. My best resource for problem diagnosis has been the Fitting and Pattern Alteration by Liechty/Rasband & Pottberg-Steineckert, my go-to guide these days. Expensive, but comprehensive on fitting.
And now, my new sweatshirt, another Burdastyle pattern I’ve used before but not blogged, in some lovely Liberty loop-backed sweat- shirting, or French terry, I think it’s called.
Apologies for the selfie. I got the fabric from Ebay after missing out on some over at Guthrie and Ghani in the Autumn and it’s lovely and sturdy, but has very little stretch. I used some ribbing I had already to finish it off and other than that there’s not much more to say. It’s perfect for pulling on over a vest top on casual days and after exercise classes to stay warm.
They stock a small, but quality selection of fabrics, craft kits, habby and other crafting items, and it’s only 20 minutes from where I live. I was gifted a lovely goody bag and treated myself to some cute pattern weights too.
Ali’s organising #SewDownDewsbury , a meet-up for fellow sewers on the 25th February, and I’m really looking forward to catching up with everyone, and also bracing myself to resist the temptations of all the fabric shopping.
And how’s my New Year pledge doing too, you ask? Well, Carol, I mean Rachel, is keeping an eye on the numbers these days and here’s the results, so far.
So, I record fabric purchases,(the 7 metres in column 1 were a Liberty sale purchase made in December before my pledge) fabric out (either used or donated) and the Sum shows I’m 15 metres better off than this time last month. Admittedly some of them were toiles, however I’m pretty pleased so far, though it’s early days.
I’ve just blown the dust off the knitting machine in the teenagers room, which usually means radio silence will ensue as the great big metal-teethed monster battles the determined,wily and effervescent Yorkshire seamstress. Who will win? No one can predict!
Until then, you have fun!