Thank you Alex Horne, for the fabulous punchline!
Despite the lack of posting I’ve been busy sewing away like mad of late. The weather in Northern England is proving to be my best dressmaking ally at the moment, so I’ve got a few recent items to share with you.
I’m still trying to sew to a kind of loose plan, around my colours, and as one of my core neutrals is olive, and I haven’t got very many basics in this colour, they’ve been on my “to sew” list for a while now.
My core colours.
Before I stopped buying fabric, I bought a few metres which would fit the bill. It’s not an easy colour to source but I’m always well up for any fabric buying challenge 😉 And yes, before you ask, I have already have broken the “no fabric until July ” pledge I made in January. Boo! The fabric was in the “too good to miss” category. An ivory hammered silk satin which was a reasonable price and had been on my fabric bucket list for years. I’m still aiming not to buy any more and am pleased to report that I’ve reduced my stash by a satisfying 29.5 metres overall so far, despite the purchase. Yay!
(Beautiful hammered silk satin, yum!)
So, first up is a pair of wide-legged cropped trousers, or culottes as they’re described, from Burda’s February issue this year, no 104.
I’ve seen a lot of this style around lately and it’s very work appropriate for me, as well as being comfortable and flattering.
The fabric is a gorgeous marled green/brown wool I bought from Cohen’s at the Knitting and Stitching show in Harrogate at the end of last year. It’s a medium weight, with plenty of drape, which this style definitely needs imho.
The style is very forgiving of fit issues, although I did my fair share of alterations. The pleats allow you to increase/decrease the waistline area easily and the wide leg fit helps too. I did my usual fit alterations, swayback, moved the pleats over for my high hips and usual crotch alterations. The length was reduced too by a couple of inches. The back pocket flaps are non-functional and they are hand sewn down to stop them from moving.
Because it was Burdastyle I ignored the sewing instructions and did my own thing. Bad move! The waistband facing needs to be sewn in on the overlap before the zip fly is inserted, otherwise you can’t pull the zip up. In my defence I’ve never sewn a waistband facing on fly-front trousers. This meant I had to rip out my zip to resolve it, but was lazy and just did a partial fix. The trousers zip up now but the insides aren’t quite as pretty.
I also made a new top to go with them.
I used my faithful Vogue 8939 t shirt, altered for a round neck, and I just added the ruffle myself to perk it up. The fabric is from Fabworks and is a lightweight jersey, slightly sheer, so the ruffle helps with coverage as well as being decorative.
The ruffle was easy to make, if you have enough fabric. You need just 2 measurements before you start ; the length, and the width of your desired ruffle. The length you use to draw a circle of the same circumference (I measured a pan and drew round that) You then draw a second, outer circle, the width away from the first circle that you want your ruffle to be. Cut round both circles and then in-between to open it up.The diagram shows it best.
I think I might have a few more ruffles in my life now 🙂
I’ve a few other items to share with you, when I get the chance to take some decent photos. Until then…